The first time Amos Wekesa describes climbing the Rwenzori, he makes it sound like an exceptionally bad idea. There are ropes, a summit attempt in the dark and stretches he is rather glad he couldn’t see. Ask him what he plans to do next and, of course, he’s going back.

That sums up Amos’s Uganda rather well. In Bwindi, the chance to sit near a mountain gorilla is the experience he would book first. Yet when it comes to sheer drama, he makes a case for the chimpanzees. In Budongo he describes what happens when they leave their nests at dawn, split into groups and head out to feed.

We also follow the Rwenzori Marathon to Kasese. Amos started the race to give people a reason to come to western Uganda and see the region for themselves. He tells me what happens when runners arrive in a town that opens its homes to visitors, and how a local race can give a Ugandan athlete a first chance to compete overseas.

There’s advice on planning a first safari, choosing how long to spend in Queen Elizabeth National Park and making time for Kampala. And then there’s lunch. Amos makes a persuasive case for luwombo cooked in banana leaves, matoke with groundnut sauce and the bamboo-shoot stew he grew up eating in eastern Uganda.