Coastal Croatia: Island hopping in the Adriatic
Croatia’s Adriatic coast may look made for effortless island-hopping, but choosing the right route can transform the trip. Travel writer Mary Novakovich joins Daniel to unlock the islands, ferry hubs, food and local customs of coastal Croatia, drawing on decades of travel and her own family ties to the country.
Mary begins in the Kvarner Gulf, where Krk, Cres, Lošinj and Rab each offer a different character, before travelling south through Zadar, the Kornati archipelago and Šibenik towards the better-known islands of Dalmatia. Along the way, she makes a case for looking beyond the headline stops: staying longer on Mljet, exploring Stari Grad and Jelsa as well as Hvar Town, or taking a simple foot ferry to the car-free islands of Zlarin and Prvić.
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From quiet pebble beaches to busy ferry ports, the episode is both a route-planning guide and a portrait of a coastline whose appeal lies in its variety, layered history and remarkable sense of local character.
For independent travellers, there is practical advice on the choices that shape an island-hopping itinerary. Passenger catamarans are fast but cannot take cars; car ferries offer more freedom once ashore but serve fewer routes. In high season, Mary recommends booking ahead and often using Split as a hub, even when that means returning to the mainland between islands. She also explains why a small-ship cruise can work well, particularly for reaching secluded coves, swimming spots and hiking routes.
The conversation also moves inland to Lika, where Mary’s parents were born and where she spent an unforgettable childhood summer in 1976. She discusses her award-winning book, My Family and Other Enemies: Life and Travels in Croatia’s Hinterland, which combines memoir, family history and travel writing to explore a region deeply affected by the Second World War, the break-up of Yugoslavia and the Croatian War of Independence.
Food is never far away: grilled fish with blitva, slow-cooked peka, Kvarner scampi, Dubrovnik’s šporki makaruli, Istrian truffles and waterfront fish festivals all make an appearance. Mary also tackles rising prices, overtourism, beach etiquette and imported tipping culture, while explaining how to experience Dubrovnik without spending the entire stay inside its crowded Old Town.
Finally, Mary shares her quick-fire essentials: swim in the Adriatic, pack water shoes, visit in September, try rakija and bring home a bottle of Croatian olive oil. She also nominates one heavily promoted attraction that she would happily skip: Biševo’s Blue Cave.
